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That final comment in the end is why I go with Elegoo 8K instead of Sunlu ABS-Like. Less failures.

man.. that build plate really looks like a pain... guess I won't be buying that printer.

That ebay seller doubled the price since the video -___-

Not enough tension in the FEP can also cause first layer adhesion issues because it doesn't snap back. or its too tight and it doesn't peel off

I do not understand how an air heater inside the chamber can work effectively with an air exhaust system installed? After all, the heated air is immediately pulled out of the printer

"It may be immortal, but the people want it, noone else is doing it and I want money - perfect opportunity" Being this honest makes you sound exactly like a drug dealer, lol

I used a seed growing pad rather than a brewers belt. I taped it to the outside of the printer and let it heat up for a few hours. Works like a charm.

Outstanding, thanks for the report, looks like I will be dropping my expensive resin and going to Sunlu ABS😊

Amazing and easy to understand video. But as always something happens to me that you do not cover in the video. On the same printer, but using an FEP film, when I am doing the adhesion test, everytime I have a fail right in the center of the plate. Re-leviled it 5 times, changed the exposer, checked with a straight edge. Still not sticking to the center of the plate. Anyone willing to help with my problem?

I got a resin printer recently my cheap ahh creality pla based resin is a little hard to tune and use but detail wise I have no complaints

I had 2 prints fail al the end with a big model crashing into the vat rupturing the fep film on my halot mage. Twice in 3 days only to realize now it was the lower temp that prob caused the bad bed adhesion. Fml. Those fep films are not cheap and such a pain to replace. Ive gone through 6 of them already

Interesting video, but this month is disability pride month and the use of the word handicapped is pretty sucky in 2024. Maybe use unfortunate or fettered or handcuffed or restrained.

Could you answer if the fermentation belt still works on the ultra? It seems like there is still enough room at the top even with the tilt, but I'm not sure.

I use a belt on my Mars 3 pro, its not perfect but has made it possible to get prints off during the winter (UK) in my unheated workshop even when its under 5 degrees C in there - I also pop an insulated 'cool bag' over the top of the printer if its below 10 degrees C to help it retain a bit of heat for longer

Engagkent

It wouldn't be that hard for a manufacturer to make a heated vat, although it would be more expensive (optional addon?) you could run one of those heater cables inside the walls of the vat then have two magnetic contact points that connect it to power next to the LCD.

I have three GK Twos. The fourth one is on the way. While the screen life may be shorter, I’ll just order a replacement when they die. But what I’ve learned is that a Vat heater is really the best. In an ideal world, the vat frame would be metal with a heater built into it, not below the screen. That way the resin would be warm, which is really the most important thing.

Thanks for the feedback OIASS. The camera is the best I have to get any close ups/macro I can and its my sons iPhone. It's hello frustrating. I need a proper macro lens and an SLR like back in the day. Lining up the thing on the back was relatively simple. It goes one way better, once you've got it that way around, it's fine. Yup its pigment on the base from AK, also their Fire Ground product, they go well together.

Nice that, in the end you got your hands on the Saturn 4 Ultra. I'm excited for that video

isnt this overkill?

I have a Mars 2 Pro and unfortunately I can't run the belt round the vat whilst running the print, but preheat the vat for about 10-20 minutes to get the resin up to 28-30C In the Spring and Summer that's been enough and in the Winter I was running the belt round the outside of the printer and printing perfectly well even in ~6C temperatures in my garage. I am considering switching to an in printer enclosure heater just for ease of use if it will fit.

I have two GKtwos and about to buy a third for my business and they run nearly 24/7. For me they just work out the box, no failiures (using sunlu abs). I've had to relevel once or twice after a while but that was due to my error. A bit to learn for their levelling process on the first time but it's not complicated. Also being in the UK and printing in the garage means I don't have to build custom heating enclosures. 10x more enjoyable process then my old elegoo saturns.

Just thought of something why don’t you make the plate itself that attaches to the printer magnetic instead?

i JUST recently bought the Chitu blower, and havent had a chance to try it. however, i knew it was going to work, because i used to have just a bog-standard small space heater blow at my Mars 3, and i would prop up the lid so the vent system i have installed (the once in a six side system) would suck sir in from under the lid, effectively warming the inside of the printer, and that mcgyver system worked just fine. had i known about the fermentation belt, i may have started with that, because i love being cheap. also, had i known Elegoo made their own, i may have bought that one instead as well, since i have an elegoo printer

Thanks for the great content. What large format resin printer would you recommend? This would be for fine, smooth (as possible) parts, but not break the bank. My thoughts are that getting a large build plate, I can certainly print small parts and in quantities, but can’t go the opposite direction without cutting parts up and assembling. I’ve also heard from other channels that just because it says 12k for example doesn’t mean you’ll get higher quality parts than say an 8k. Doesn’t make sense to me, but I am new at this and in the researching phase.

Gotta do a bunny video mate.

I wish the Ultra also had the green.

I have two of the Chitu Systems heaters for both of my Saturn 3 Ultra. I find they do work really well, but my machines are in my basement where the ambient temp is typically above 65 F but rarely over 70 F. I do let the resin pre-heat for an hour or so before starting prints or after refilling post-print before starting a new print. I'm looking into a self adhesive heating belt for my Mars 5 Ultra that is on pre-order due to the space limitation inside of that unit.

Would anyone be able to send me in the right direction to download the cones of calibration v3? I have been to Tableflip's website but can only download v.1 and have been unable to find it anywhere on the googles.

I have a heat belt on my Halot One+ and it works great! I'd love to put one on my Halot Mage 8K, but there isn't enough clearance at the back of the Resin Tray for a belt. The Chitu heater is currently £70 here. Wham Bam do an ultra thin heating belt which would probably just fit on the Mage, but the price is extortionate and shipping from the US would be ridiculous. I've built Vogmans light bulb based heater for an enclosure, so I might have a go at his blower heater

-2c here. brrr. I use reptile heating pads to keep the resin bottles warm, then cover the printer with mylar and a sleeping bag to keep it warm when printing

Have 2 of the Chitu Heaters in my Saturn 3 Ultras. Work great would recomend that you buy a back up power supply. I've already had one blow out so now have 2 backups. Also the weather stripping works great just cut it into sections for a better adaptation and adhere it with some silicone. I use an infinite mix cycle with the heater to keep the resin ready to go.

Just joined in the Light Support tier!! Keep 'em coming! These videos are gold and super informative. Plus funny af too

I had been looking at getting some of the "fancy" resin since i was looking for super high detail, bit seeing this Ill definitely keep to the cheaper more durable stuff once i get my settings properly tuned in 😁 In the side by side, i did notice small differences (namely minor warping in the figures) but its really one of the things thats not at all noticeable unless comparing side to side with another copy or reference

Straight up watched a whole vid for over an hour for a printer type I don’t even want lol.

As for brittleness: from my check is that Anycubic ABS-like is very brittle, Elegoo ABS-like is much less brittle, but still a bit, better use Anycubic Tough - still precise, but not brittle. I need to still check Tough 2.0 if it's better. PRice difference is like 10-15%, so totally worth.

Great video, thank you so much! As a query; I've heard the belts do not work on the tilting vat of the Saturn 4 Ultra- any truth to this? I'd additionally heard that aquarium heaters stuck inside the hood of the printers can also be a very easy, cost efficient solution. Again, is this something you'd heard of and ruled out, or not yet tried? At any rate, kudos for another entertaining and informative video. So glad I subbed!

I just strap the fermentation heater to the printer lid , it heats the whole chamber well enough that the vat , resin and bed are all nice and warm

How many watts was the fermentation belt?

Great paints!! Can't wait to see what goodies we get next month!

Seems really weird they're not using silicone heater pads like fdm printers. Self adhesive would stick to the bottom of the vat easily.